Off-island visit to Port Hardy

Tyler paints the Burger Barn

Let me see if I can make a story of this. Imagine you live on a small island on which it is possible to satisfy your immediate needs without ever leaving. There is a co-op (mostly a grocery store, but also some "dry goods," school supplies, liquor), a gas station, a hardware store, a church, a pub (open from 4 p.m. until 10). A lot of the inhabitants have gardens, with such a surplus that they are able to sell their produce, so that in summer you have fresh beets, chard, kale, lettuce, garlic, and so on. There is a gal who cuts hair, another who does manicures and pedicures, not in shops, but at their homes. In theory, one can have most of one's needs cared for her.

But there is no restaurant (the one at the hotel closed this year), and the best food service is at the so-called Burger Barn, located at the harbor, which is open daily from 12 to 8. Good burgers, of beef and of halibut. Coho Joe's café has regular but limited service hours. Two other "establishments" offer pastries and pizzas. Unfortunately this story will not discuss them. Maybe next year when we hope to see some improvements.

Tyler paints Coho Joe's

 It's not a surprise that many of us occasionally feel the need for some variety, for a wider selection. No dentist here, for instance, no barber for men. So it is that we head "off island." And for most of us it is a modest trip to Port McNeill, a short ferry ride across the strait, where there is a large IGA supermarket, not to forget a real cafe, Mugz.

The first stage of an off-island trip is to take the ferry. There is always a line up of vehicles, many in line since the previous ferry left, as the boats are not always large enough to carry the traffic. In summer in particular visitors come here in large campers and trailers, and there is also some industrial vehicles. Waiting for the ferry is a rather sociable event: people get out of their cars and talk with other travelers or simply with folks walking by or filling up with gas. (The gas station is right across the street.) Yesterday while we waited for the 1:45 ferry, Tyler Wallace could be seen executing a portrait of Coho Joe's cafe, conveniently situated next to the ferry lineup.

Not all will be able to board

Small island life produces small but important pleasures, one of which is watching from the top deck of the ferry to see how many vehicles the B.C. Ferries loaders can get on the boat, and how many don't make it. The ones that don't get on have to wait in the line up for the next ferry off island. At 4:35. Quite a wait in a town when the café closes at 2:30. Oh, there is a museum, open daily from 12 to 4 and just a short walk from the ferry, and of course the Burger Barn will be open, but you would have to drive there and lose your place in line. But perhaps you could get one of the bikes from the Sointula Resource Center and peddle there.

Yesterday, I went with friends to Port Hardy a larger town north of Port McNeill, where there are even more offerings. There is Cafe Guido, for instance, which includes a charming boutique and a really fine, but select, bookshop. One section includes used books for 60 percent off the face price. There is also a HUGE supermarket in Port Hardy, a computer store, a large liquor store, and so on. In addition, boat travel to islands farther afield, to Port Rupert, for instance, originate in Port Hardy. There are kayak outfitters here.

The highlight of our trip there yesterday was dinner at Ha'me' Restaurant, which features a menu that is "aboriginally inspired," which probably refers to the seafood offerings. The link will take you to the menu. All I can say is that it holds up to any restaurant I have been to in Manhattan. The fish, we learned from the chef, was fresh, not frozen. I started with half a dozen oysters, which were luscious with Pinot Grigio. My main course -- halibut on a brioche -- was preceded by the most delicious homemade tomato cream soup. It was so good that we took home a quart, hoping to be able to figure out how to make it ourselves.

The restaurant is located in the Kwa'lilas Hotel, a place that I suspect would please the most fastidious traveler.